Monday, April 25, 2011

Buona Pasqua a tutti!

       It's kind of interesting how being in Rome and at the Vatican this weekend has given me a completely new spin on and appreciation for Easter. Yes, I did partake in a chocolate egg and my mom did send me Reese's (both of which are significantly important), but there was so much more to these last few days that I don't know if I can explain well, but for all of you, I'm going to try.

       My first big event of the weekend was on Good Friday - the famed Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross) at the Colosseum, with Pope Benedict presiding. I went with four other friends (three from UD and one from Germany) and we walked down Via dei Fori Romani together, which is the street that leads to the Colosseum and goes through the Forums. The whole street was blocked off to mechanical traffic in order to make more room for the pedestrian traffic - aka there were a whole lot of people there. We finally got through and were somehow able to find a place to stand in the open area between the Colosseum and the Forum, right in front of where the Pope was supposed to be. The whole area was filled with people - standing, sitting, kneeling, and packed in as tightly as we could stand. There were Italian boy scouts walking around handing out candles and programs, and nuns using their habits to their advantage to push their way closer to the front. The thing that struck me the most though (and continued to impress me throughout the weekend) was the global presence of the Church that I kept seeing - I don't know how many languages I heard or how many people I saw representing nations that I've never been to, but all of us came together for the events that we considered to be very important.
       As Pope Benedict came into view and got into position under his little red tent, the crowd let out a huge roar - Viva la Papa! With the cameras flashing and people shouting across the way, he gave everyone a few moments as he waved with a smile and addressed the crowd. As he fell silent and kneeled, a hush fell over the crowd, cameras were put down, and the prayers begun. It was like a secret code that everyone knew - celebrate, take pictures, and live in the moment, but don't forget what this whole thing is really about. We progressed through the fourteen stations (all in Italian...so glad I study it!) and were going through the Via Crucis for about an hour and a half, complete with songs sung by an amazing choir and rotating readers so that we could at least tell the difference between the readings and the reflections. At the end of the prayer, the crowd once again cheered and waved as the Pope rose and waved, before heading back to his vehicle. The whole process was filled with a prayerful awe, especially when I looked around and realized that this was still only a fraction of the Body of Christ present - there are not enough words to describe this sensation.
       The other most impressive part of my weekend was Easter Sunday Mass at the Vatican. I had made plans to go with Marie and Amanda, two girls from UD that I hang out with a lot here, and we all had tickets to get in to St. Peter's Square. Mass started at 10:15, and the doors opened at 8:30, so we planned to get there and meet at 6:30. Early, I know, but we thought that it would be the best option - we knew that we did not want to stand the whole time, and were prepared to show up early to get a seat!
       I was the first one there (and, as it turns out, the only one of us three to wake up to her alarm) and got there at 6:15 - yes, before they turned the lights off at St. Peter's, before dawn. As I walked down Via Conciliazione, I saw about 20 other people. total. The really nice part about that was that I got a few moments of the morning pretty much to myself at the Vatican - what a cool experience! Sometime around 7:00, the other two arrived and joined me in line. We killed the time telling stories, complaining about how early it was, and talking to the other people around us. After waiting for just under two hours, they opened the gates. How did I know this? Certainly not because I saw it, but because EVERYONE started moving. I wasn't actually moving of my own volition, but there was no way I was going to even be able to stop if I had wanted to - those Germans, Filipinos, and nuns are downright pushy.
       After somehow getting through security, I saw that Marie and Amanda had gotten through ahead of me and were saving our seats. So I stopped to take a picture of everyone running as fast as they could manage to get the best seat possible - obviously paying no head to the advice of the Swiss Guards, who were trying to tell people to go slowly and take it easy. Because of their hard work, we were able to land seats in the ninth row of the first section! Maybe it was giddiness, maybe it was a bit of early morning exhaustion, but I was extremely pleased with how close to the front we were able to get - and I know that they were, too. Before we had started this whole part of the adventure, I didn't know if I would be able to get there at all, and now I found myself right up front.
       We passed the next two hours chatting, napping, watching people, and taking pictures. We saw all of the last minute preparations, including the uncovering of the ambo, the positioning of the VIPs (whoever they were) on either side of the altar, the cameramen setting up their cameras, the security people (as well as the Cardinals) taking their stations, and heard the sound tests. We even snuck past the guard up front who kept waving people back to their seats in order to take a pretty fabulous picture together (with another girl from UD, Kate, who we sat next to).

       Around 10:00, the marching bands started. No, I didn't know that there was a pre-mass parade, either. But after these bands (and the Swiss Guards) marched through the Piazza, the procession for mass began. Just like the other night, people were constantly taking pictures and working to be taller than (or at least get better views than) everyone else who happened to be in their way - meaning that before Papa B. made his way in the popemobile up to the altar, everyone was on their chairs. Once the entire procession made its way up to the altar and the popemobile made its exit, everyone settled down (and sat down) to participate in the mass - and to watch it all unfold. For any of you who have been to a Catholic mass before, that's pretty much what happened. But it was in Latin...with Italian translations in the program. And over 1,000,000 people in attendance. And of course, the shock-and-awe factor of being at the Vatican for Easter. We were sitting amongst people from all over the world, and it was pretty obvious that we were all loving every minute of it. I especially liked the petitions (7 of them) that were all in different languages - including Chinese and Swahili. My other favorite was all of the chanting - a good number of the different parts of mass were chanted (including the creed), so thanks to all of the time I spent at St. Meinrad I was able to follow (and sing) along!
       Passing into the Eucharistic rite, we saw somewhere around 40-50 priests come out to distribute Communion. As they were splitting up and heading toward the crowd, we started to wonder how in the world this feat was going to be accomplished...and then we saw the umbrellas.

At first, I thought that they were just to give the priests some shade (it didn't get sunny until mass started - coincidence?), but then I realized it was so that people could find the closest distributor. If you look at those pictures, can you understand why? After receiving ourselves, I spent some time watching ''our'' distributor - he looked slightly stressed. In order to distribute, he had to just keep turning in circles (360 degrees) because people were pressing to him from all directions. And then, I took a look back towards the rest of the crowd - I'm not actually sure when all of those people showed up, but it was obviously sometime when I wasn't looking...

       After everyone returned to their seats, Pope Benedict said the closing prayer, and then processed into the Basilica so that he could read his address - and of course, wish the entire world a Happy Easter (in about 40 different languages, of course). Each language was announced, then the respective Happy Easter was said, and then came the cheers from those who were present and represented that nation or language. Although I completely missed English, I did enjoy (of course) Italian and Spanish, as well as Swahili, Chinese, Ukrainian, Slovakian, and Yiddish - not that I could repeat any of them for you... In between all of the cheers and the message that he was sharing with the people there (and all around the world, thanks to internet and television), I had a sensation of pure joy - Easter day, at the Vatican, with people from all over the place. What an unbelievable experience.
       After we found our way out of the Vatican, we ate some pizza, and Amanda and I went to Tiber Island to rest and catch some rays. That evening, I went to Amanda's apartment, where we cooked together with Kate and were joined by Amanda's roommate Melissa for an Easter dinner - college-student-studying-abroad style. We made pork, baked potatoes, haluski (Slovakian pasta, onion, cabbage, and butter dish), applesauce, and shared a chocolate egg - and of course, some wine and conversation. What a lovely end to a lovely day.

       I hope I haven't lost too many of you (yes, I know it's long, but I couldn't leave anything out) and that at the very least, you enjoyed the pictures! Stay posted as I try to survive JPII's Beatification next week - and hopefully make it into the Vatican. The city has been crawling with people this week with [only] one million extra tourists - how will we ever make it through with three million more?

Playing Catchup....

       Buona Pasquetta! (aka, Happy Easter Monday!) So I know that this is totally unlike how I've been writing these blogs lately, but I'm going to write two today! This one to catch you all up on what I've been doing and the other one, well, you'll see!
       I've been noticing over the last few weeks how much more comfortable I'm feeling in Rome. I know my way around so much better now, and from any point in the city, I can figure out more than one way to get home. For those of you who understand how Roman public transportation works (or doesn't, depending on how you look at it), this is a pretty useful skill. I'm also doing things like walking by Vatican City or the Colosseum without a second thought. I have also stopped taking so many pictures of the really big and famous things, and now take pictures of the random smaller things that just catch my attention - the one below is a bench that is in the park right beside Castel Sant'Angelo.

       I spend a lot of time in that park (near Piazza Adriana) because it is only 2 blocks away from my university, and is such a great place to pass the time - especially since the weather has been warming up so much! I also spend a good amount of time with the other 3 Americans at my residence, and we do things like have after dark picnics on Janiculum Hill (which overlooks Rome), go to bars that play live music (rockabilly night was my favorite) and make American food (casseroles and BLTs) just to surprise the Italians. It's really nice to occasionally give my mind a break from all of the Italian and Spanish and just have fun every now and then!
lookout over the center of Rome
       This month, we also had a "Culture Week" in Rome (which I'm pretty sure was also recognized across Italy in general) where a good number of the museums and historical sights were free! It was such a great week - I finally made it into Castel Sant'Angelo (which has a really great up-close-and-personal view of the city), the Colosseum, and the Roman Forum. All of these are pretty important and famous sights in Rome, but I guess I had just been waiting for the right time to check them all out - and that week was it!
visiting friends - Bridget and Mo - at the Colosseum!
       On April 9th, I took a day trip to Pisa with a friend from school. It is a very cute little town, and walking around it was a relaxing break from all of the noise and busyness of Rome. We started off by wandering around the city for a little while, and actually found a really cool farmer's market (Italian style, of course) where they sold just about everything between all of the different vendors. Obviously, we made a stop at the Tower (it's the main attraction of the entire city) and Kevin even convinced me that we should go up...since we were there. Although it was only about a half-hour visit inside, it was really pretty cool. If you can imagine trying to climb all the way up that tower with its centuries-old stairs at a slant, you can understand how confused my brain was - and how lopsided I felt when I looked out over the city. It was definitely a lot of fun, and we took the obligatory pictures with the Tower (and also of the other people taking these pictures) before wandering around a bit more and heading back to Rome.

The other big event that happened was Il Seminario delle Palme at the residence, and it was basically a weekend conference for all of the students that I live with, and took place over Palm Sunday weekend. I wasn't able to make it to all of the presentations and speeches, but it was really cool seeing all of the students come together to host guests from outside the city, put on a spectacular play, and serve each other at the lunches and dinners - not to mention the dance party they threw together on Saturday night. The interesting part (for us Americans) was seeing the end of the conference approach on Sunday. After mass and lunch, the guests all started to leave, but as we watched, so did a good number of the people we actually knew. We came to learn that because a good number of them had very few classes (if any at all) that week, they were headed home so that they could have a week-and-a-half or even two week Easter vacation. Just one more thing that the States could learn from Italy...
Dan's fingers got in the way...
       Other than all of that, I spend a good amount of time hanging out with people from school, people from the residence, or commuting between the two. Some of the more interesting friendships I've made actually are with people who don't fit into either of these groups, but are people that I know from the neighborhood in which LUMSA (my university) is located. One block to the north of my classes is a street called Borgo Pio, which is a pedestrian-only zone and is full of all sorts of interesting little shops and restaurants. If you go to the end closer to the Vatican, it gets pretty touristy...so I stay at the other end. I've discovered a neat little restaurant named Hungry Bogart (cute, right?) and the owner of the place is interested in hearing all sorts of stories and talking to basically everyone, so I go there to grab lunch pretty often. Between our conversations and the rest of the people in the place (and the fact that the rest of them are all Italian) a quick lunch usually turns into a two or three hour ordeal. There's also a 75-year-old man who lives across the street named Franco who stops by pretty often. I spend a lot of time on Borgo Pio talking to all of these people and I really enjoy it - what better ways are there to practice a language than to speak it with the natives?
       To close this blog, I'm going to add a picture we took at Giuseppe's birthday party back at the beginning of the month. Living in a community definitely has its perks - where else would I be invited to join in on a dinner on the terrace that just turns into a birthday party? These are some of the people I live with - all of whom are really great. Coming to stay at Villa Nazareth was such a great decision!
Doralisa, Camilla, Mattia, Giuseppe, Andrea, Valentina, and I